Food Review: Matsu

You know that feeling of familiarity when you bump into a long forgotten acquaintance or  friend?  That was how I felt when I was having lunch at Matsu. 

Matsu may not ring an immediate bell but you could probably remember Shibaken, a Japanese French restaurant located at the second level of the Gallery hotel.  I believe that at one point in time, Shibaken was pretty popular, no doubt brought by its interesting concept (Japanese take on classical French cuisine) and unique restaurant layout (sushi-bar counter style ala L'Atelier).  But it never really made it and then it fell off the radar.  Later, the original chef left as well.

Matsu is the newer version of Shibaken and named after Matsu-san, one of the original chefs from the old restaurant and now the executive chef at the new restaurant.  His food is no longer just about classical French techniques but more contemporary and lighter on the palate as well. 

At lunch, there was 3 different sets to choose from, good for different budgets and levels of hunger.  I chose the bamboo set, $48++ with 4 courses.

Course 1: Appetizers which comprised of marinated mushrooms, capellini with pesto, Japanese turnip puree with fromage blanc (an acquired taste this one is), amberjack sashimi with coriander dressing and ume jelly (this was super yums!), salad and foie gras mousse on a half-homemade bun that the boy got to enjoy on my behalf.

Course 2: Cream of cauliflower soup that had a wonderful creamy texture that you know is pure goodness and not thickened artificially by flour and what-not. 

Course 3: this was the main course, and I chose the baked salmon in filo and burnt butter caper sauce out of the four options.  Unfortunately the salmon was slightly overdone, but nonetheless, it was still quite enjoyable particularly with the tart capers.  The potato gratin on the side was cold and just not as good as it could be.

Course 4: dessert was matcha pound cake with azuki bean paste and homemade lentil ice cream.   There was little synergy between the two items except that the ice cream had a beany powdery texture that matched the cake and red bean paste.  Dessert was probably the weakest point of the meal.

We were the only people during the lunch service on Saturday.  Maybe because of the lack of a crowd, we had the attention of the friendly restaurant manager, Connie, who chatted with us extensively throughout.   After the meal, we hung out a little bit, talking to Matsu-san and another chef, Shaun (or is it Sean?) about knives among other things.  It was a lovely lunch really.  Now that I rediscovered Matsu, I wouldn't mind going back more often.

Mumbai: Britannia & Co.

Even if it was right after a late-ish brunch, my colleague could not resist showing me to another place, an institution marked by its retro-checked tablecloth, creaky wooden chairs, cocktail-style-folded serviettes, dusty metal-bladed fans, peeling paint and finally, the four generations of Parsi-owners working in the restaurant.  For some reason, Britannia reminded me much of our own Colbar. 

low tech

We were full, it was less than 1.5 hours since we ingested any food.  But we were there and Bombay duck was actually available (it was not available previously when my colleague ate there).  We had to eat!  

BOMBAY DUCK??

Did you know that Bombay duck is actually not a duck dish?  Well, I found out it is a fish, coated with a fragrant spice rub, and small enough to be deep-fried whole and could be eaten bones and all.  Somewhat like sardines, but less fishy and very moist and soft.  Most of the bones were soft enough to chew through and swallow.  The spice rub was very addictive and despite being very oily, I wished I could eat more.

Berry vegetable pulao

The colleague needed some substantial food (read: carb) and he ordered a special berry veg pulao (pilaf), which essentially is similar to a briyani, but tossed with dried cranberries and a mixed vegetable masala.  It was very tasty, but again, anything cooked with much ghee would not taste too bad.  There were three fried potato balls on the sides and contrary to what I thought, they were unfortunately not very memorable. 

old school fans

cocktail fan-styled serviettes

entrance

Britannia is one of those rare gems and long standing restaurants that oozes with history and memories.  Recommended!

Opposite New Customs House, 
Ballard Estate Fort City, Mumbai 
Phone: 022/2261-5264